From Montana Magazine, No 184, March/April 2004, 22-29; this article is presented in cooperation with Montana Magazine. All rights reserved, © 2004.

WILD & WOOLLY
   In the early days, the Havre area was referred to as Bull Hook Bottoms. Home to a number of Indian tribes, the region attracted trappers, fur traders, early ranchers, and a few miners seeking gold and silver in the nearby Bear’s Paw Mountains. In 1879, Congress ordered construction of Fort Assinniboine, to be located near the Milk River, about six miles southwest of present-day Havre. The safety afforded by Fort Assinniboine encouraged more homesteaders to move to northcentral Montana. Constructing the fort led to the boom of Cypress, a small “town” that catered to the desires of frontiersmen and unattached soldiers, namely alcohol and women. The story goes that when the fort’s commandant banned soldiers from frequenting the town, the residents and businesses of Cypress packed up and moved to Bull Hook Bottoms.
   That move coincided with the development of the Great Northern Railway, built by railroad magnate James J. Hill. Railroad officials who were building a line east from Minot, North Dakota, to the Pacific Ocean chose Bull Hook Bottoms as a location for a train depot, due to its close proximity to the Milk River and nearby Fort Assinniboine.
   Havre incorporated in 1893, when the residents of what was then still Chouteau County voted by a margin of twenty-six ballots to do so. A heated debate regarding the town’s name ensued, until a French immigrant suggested it be christened after the French city Le Havre, which means “the harbor.” As a place of sanctuary against the elements and rogue bands of Indians, the town’s residents readily accepted the name, now pronounced Have-er.
   By most accounts, Havre’s early years were nothing short of totally wild. A newspaper article in 1898 described the town as a robber’s roost and a rendezvous for thieves. The city went through five different mayors in as many years. Cattle rustling was a good job for a number of young men in those days, though the retirement rate was awfully small. When ranchers caught rustlers on their land, they were punished in one of two ways, said Havre history teacher Ray Berg: “The first involved a tree, a rope, and a horse. The second involved a Winchester rifle. There weren’t too many repeat offenders.”
   A 1931 newspaper account that described Havre in 1904 said it was the end of steel … home to railroad construction men, saloonkeepers, gamblers and many immoral women. Havre had twenty-four saloons then, besides many houses in which drinks could be bought. And nearly any one of the habitues of the gambling halls could kill more men with a muzzle loading rifle than any Chicago gangster with a machine gun.
Much of downtown Havre burned to the ground during a catastrophic fire in 1904. The business district, composed mainly of wooden buildings, suffered the worst losses. Stories about the fire vary, but most accounts blame arson or careless drunks.
   Concerned that Havre’s wild reputation was undermining his ability to raise capital to extend the Great Northern to Spokane, Washington, Hill sent the town an ultimatum to clean up or he would move the railroad.
   The townsfolk elected a new mayor that year, former railroad employee Louis Newman. Newman immediately enlisted the help of four new police officers to help him whip the town into shape. One, George Hall, was reportedly the best shot in Montana, and another, George Bickle, had a habit of putting folk in a sweet and peaceful sleep when he hit them, according to that same 1931 newspaper article.
   The town shaped up—at least on the surface. Because the fire had ravaged most of the downtown, industrious businessmen moved their enterprises underground. In elaborate passageways beneath the ill-fated wooden buildings, Havre became a virtual underground city, with grocers, bakers, saloon owners, butchers, and pharmacists staking their claim beneath the streets.
   The introduction of brick structures and Havre’s transition into a more “civilized” city ultimately phased out the underground enterprises, but the era has been vividly captured by Havre Beneath the Streets, an exhibit dedicated to that chapter in the city’s history.

HI-LINE HUB
   Havre prospered in the early twentieth century, somehow finding a happy medium between untamed spirit and the more subdued lifestyle of an established city. The town grew quickly and added a brewery, a cigar factory, and several meat-packing plants. Its growth was bolstered by the railroad and a number of large ranching and farming operations. Strong local leadership, human enterprise, and modern conveniences of electricity and plumbing secured the town’s future.
   Today, Havre is the eighth-largest city in the state, serving as the social and economic base of the Hi-Line, that northerly region of Montana between the Missouri River and the Canadian border. Although strongly dependent on farming and ranching, the local economy also relies on the railroad, Montana State University–Northern, and a regional medical center.
   Close to 10,000 people call Havre home, though the city’s atmosphere often resembles that of a smaller community. Many people have lived here their entire lives, and most have no plans to
leave. All of Havre’s stoplights can be found on one of two business streets, and roaming cattle are
a common sight on State Highway 234 through Beaver Creek Park south of town.
The city has two mottoes: “Havre: It’s the People,” and “Havre Has It.” The truth is probably some combination of the two because the best of Havre is not sold in a store; it is found in the people who call it home.
    Residents are friendly and generous. A young man who moved to Havre several years ago from a larger city was surprised when a pair of locals stopped on the street to help him change a flat tire. He learned that this small act of kindness proved reflective of the city as a whole. Havreites go out of their way to make strangers feel welcome and share a bit of small-town hospitality. Last fall Havre held a community barbecue to honor Canadian neighbors, and hundreds of visitors from over the border converged on the city for the weekend.

TOURING & TASTING
    Amid the banks, real estate offices, clothing boutiques, and jewelry stores downtown, residents and visitors can absorb a true sense of the city’s rich history by visiting its several museums.
Havre Beneath the Streets is an absolute must-see. The tour includes historically accurate re-creations of businesses in early 1900s Havre, including a saloon, brothel, opium den, dentist office, bakery, and drugstore.
   Located above is the Havre Railroad Museum, with photos, displays, railroad equipment, and historical records. An elaborate model railroad display is popular with kids and adults.
   The H. Earl Clack Museum, in the Heritage Center in downtown Havre, includes dinosaur remains that were recovered from the Hi-Line, elaborate historical dioramas, and an art gallery. The museum, named after an influential early Havre businessman, is housed in a three-story red brick building that is generally regarded as one of the most attractive structures in Havre. Formerly Havre’s post office and federal courthouse, it was saved from possible destruction in 1996 when the city purchased it from the federal government.
   The county owns another museum west of Havre called the Wahkpa Chu’gn Bison Kill Site, an authentic buffalo jump. Visitors learn about the history of the early Plains Indians who once used the site and can even try throwing their weapon of choice, the atlatl.
   Havre’s hotels and inns cater to a range of tastes and budgets. The area also offers more rugged accommodations. Deep in the Bear's Paw Mountains to the south, (commonly called the Bearpaws), the more adventurous can rent small, one-bedroom cabins from the Chippewa Cree Indian Tribe.
   Hungry? I like Nalivka’s Pizza Kitchen for carryout. Try the delicious, homemade, thin-crust pizzas, as well as other Italian dishes and desserts. The Parthenon is a brave hybrid of fast food and Greek cuisine, serving gyros and kabobs as well as dozens of flavored sodas.
   With Havre sitting in the middle of beef country, there is no shortage of steak at two fine supper clubs. Uncle Joe’s serves fresh-baked bread that has no equal. Andy’s offers thick steak, though patrons may not have room for it after eating the shrimp and ravioli appetizers while being entertained by the colorful decor and numerous tanks occupied by exotic fish.

ECONOMIC OUTLOOK
   While the past is important, so is the future. Six years of drought in northcentral Montana has left an impact on the region, and community leaders have searched to develop the economy in other areas, such as tourism.
    U.S. Highway 2 bisects Havre from east to west and many of the city’s businesses are located alongside it. One group of determined volunteers has spearheaded a campaign to expand the highway from two lanes to four lanes, believing that a larger highway would spur economic

development. Another committee, with the help of grants, this winter hired a consultant to study whether Havre could support a proposed multipurpose center that could be used for regional sporting events, concerts, and conventions. Proponents maintain that construction of the special-events center would attract business from throughout the state.

HAVRE LINKS Lodging Attractions Campgrounds Events Food & Drink

   Signs of an economic rebound are apparent at the Holiday Village Shopping Center, where occupancy
is at ninety percent. The mall once languished with only two thirds of its floor space filled. Two major retailers recently opened in anchor spots, giving the mall a healthy boost of business.
   Others groups focus on improving life in other areas. The North­ west Area Foundation, a charitable group founded by the family of James J. Hill, recently awarded a $13 million grant to an eleven-county area of northcentral Montana to fight poverty.
   The work of civic-minded leaders and concerned citizens is indicative of a common sense of purpose among Havre residents. Whether it’s working to build a skateboard park for the city’s youth or striving to establish a low-cost public health center, people in Havre want the best and are willing to work for it.
   Havreites are no strangers to harsh weather and hard times, but always find reasons to rejoice in the place called home. We rally behind local sports teams, visit Havre’s museums and other places of historical interest, attend community festivals, and take advantage of the great outdoors. Large enough to
offer the amenities of a bigger city, Havre prides itself on maintaining a small-town atmosphere and keeping close ties to its roots.

OUT AND ABOUT Bear Paw Ski Bowl twenty miles south of town on Rocky Boy’s Indian Reservation offers a small but rewarding place to ski as well as a newly constructed inner-tube run. The ski bowl’s motto “ski knee deep, cheap at the steep and deep” is no lie, and skiers will not leave the ski bowl disappointed. Those who make the trip should be required by law to treat themselves to a Hermie Burger, a new take on an old classic that tastes positively divine after a day on the slopes.    If it were up to me, any visitor with a car and an extra hour would be required to tour Beaver Creek Park, which stretches nearly twenty miles from top to bottom. The drive is pleasant and offers impressive views of the Bear’s Paw Mountains. Spring is an especially beautiful time, when some of the peaks are still capped in snow, and lower foliage and grasslands are a lush green. The park is home to two lakes that are well-stocked with fish. Be sure to take a drive around the lakes, but I recomend four-wheel drive as the unpaved roads may be muddy from melting snow. Public land along Beaver Creek is home to more than a dozen campgrounds, any one of which make a perfect setting for a picnic.    In 1877, the U. S. Army defeated Nez Perce Indians at a site about thirty miles southeast of Havre during a tragic conflict made famous by Chief Joseph’s “I will fight no more forever” speech. Now called Chief Joseph Battleground of Bear’s Paw, or simply Bear Paw Battlefield, the area is a designated national historical site open year-round.    Fort Assinniboine was the largest military stronghold in the Montana Territory and, until its closure in 1913, was home to thousands of enlisted men, and officers and their wives. Visitors can still tour the fort, some of which has been preserved in its original state. The guided tour lasts a little over an hour and includes a comprehensive history of the fort and the surrounding area. Visitors are taken around the fort’s perimeter and allowed to inspect fifteen of the buildings that still stand today.    Springtime in northcentral Montana is a great time to watch migratory waterfowl. As frozen lakes thaw, a wide assortment of geese and ducks return to open water. Among the species that frequent the area are Canada geese, snow geese, northern pintails, mallards, canvasbacks, and teals. In the spring, many of the male ducks are in breeding plumage and tend to be more colorful. Beaver Creek Park is a prime location for birdwatchers, as is the Sands Waterfowl Production Area adjacent to the Havre City-County Airport. Northern Blaine County, marked by stock reservoirs and wetlands, is also good.